More about Ferrets

Size and Weight

Females

Female ferrets are often slender and petite in comparison to males. They grow to a length of 12 to 16 inches from nose to hindquarters, with an additional tail which is about 5 inches in length. Females are also quite light, usually weighing 1 to 2.5 pounds.

Males

Male ferrets are larger than females by a considerable amount. They grow to a length of about 17 to 24 inches from nose to hindquarters, with an additional tail which is about 5 inches long. While they are not considerably larger in length, males are more solid and muscular, with a weight of 3 to 5 pounds.

Lifespan

Ferrets have an average lifespan of around 5 years, though 7 years or more is not uncommon for a ferret that has not been met by a disease. The oldest recorded ferret lived to an age of 14 years. The leading cause of death is any of several common diseases which affect older ferrets. Injuries can also shorten a ferret's life span, and their curiosity can often get them into trouble.

Training

Nip Training

All ferrets need to be nip trained. Young ferrets would normally play with their siblings in mock battle as a way to practice hunting. Ferrets have considerably thicker skin than humans, and are of course unaware of this. When they play-bite a human, they do not know that it hurts, because the same amount of pressure wouldn't hurt a thicker-skinned sibling. You need to let the ferret know your limits, and make them aware of how much pressure they are allowed to use before it hurts. A simple way to do this is to ignore the ferret for a minute after a painful nip, or use a training product such as bitter apple. Eventually, with persistence, a ferret will learn how much pressure is acceptable when playing.

Litter Training

Ferrets can be litter trained better than most other small animals, though it does take some practice. They prefer a large litter box with high sides in which they feel safe, but with a low enough front they can enter and exit easily. Any kitty litter that does not produce dust will do. Ferrets have short digestive tracks and will most likely run for the bathroom when they need to go. If a litter box is not nearby, they will go in the next most acceptable corner. They almost never use the bathroom away from a well protected corner. Once you figure out a ferret's favorite spots, place litter boxes there, and remember to keep them reasonably clean. Most ferrets do not like to touch their own waste, and will avoid a box that has too much waste in it. However, if it is too clean, they won't be able to smell their own scent and may be unaware that this is the proper place to go. With some persistence, you should have a pet that uses the litter box with a very good hit-rate. Remember that not every animal is the same, and while some may succeed from the first try, others may have difficulty ever using the litter box with a high success rate.

Housing

Ferrets need large cages. The general rule is to buy the biggest cage you can afford with the most levels you can find. While ferrets live well together, each needs about 12 cubic feet to spread out and fit their supplies.

In addition, ferrets should be given a reasonable amount of time out of the cage. A pair of ferrets could get by on 3 hours of free time per day, every day. While a pair or group of ferrets have each other to stay entertained in the cage, a ferret living alone will get bored much faster, and therefore requires more time out of the cage; at least 4 hours or more. The more time you can give a ferret out of the cage, the better.

A ferret’s cage needs a few supplies:

o    A food dish - Select a heavy dish that is more difficult to tip over, which hold holds at least a day's worth of food. Keep the dish full and accessible at all times.

o    A water dish - A ferret needs a heavy food dish that holds at least 6 oz of water. This water should always be fresh and clean, and accessible at all times. A drip bottle is not a good choice for a ferret as they use the water to clean their face and paws, and a drip bottle does not provide a steady enough flow of water.

o    Bedding - Ferrets are clean animals, and therefore do not need a floor covering like other small animals. They thrive on warmth and comfort, so small, fluffy blankets, towels, or even old clothes are a great idea. Wash these at least once a week to keep odors down.

o    Litter box - Your ferret needs a litter box so it has somewhere to use the bathroom and contain their waste. Scoop the litter box as often as possible for hygiene and to reduce odors.

o    Other - A hammock is a great idea for ferrets. They love to be able to hang and hide. Another good option is a tube in which they can hide; it's even more fun if it makes noise. If you provide toys, be sure it is nothing the ferret can chew apart and possibly choke on.

Ferrets are highly sensitive to light; studies show that a lack of darkness can lead to an increase in certain diseases. A ferret's cage should be in a dark or shadowy area, and provide a tube or other shelter in which the ferret can retreat for pure darkness. Consider blocking off an area of the cage using dark materials. Whatever your decision, do not close off the cage or put it in a contained area in an effort to provide darkness. A closet or other small room could lead to boredom and suffocation if circulation is not sufficient.

Diet

Ferrets are obligate carnivores, and as such, can digest meat exclusively. High quality ferret-specific food, found in a pet store or online, will likely be sufficient. Check for a nutritional breakdown of 40% protein, 20% fat, and less than 3% fiber. A little less protein or fat is OK, but too much under will not meet a ferret's needs. Avoid any grains in the first few ingredients listed on the bag. Also avoid fish, as it tends to make ferrets smelly and it is not a part of their natural diet. In the case ferret food in unavailable, certain high-quality kitten foods may suffice, but be sure to read the label carefully.

While raw diets are incredibly healthy and much more natural, they are tricky to get right, not to mention persuade your ferret to eat it. Raw diets should only be attempted with the consultation, assistance, and supervision of a vet, very careful research, and lots of time and patience. If you are unsure of how to plan and feed a raw diet, it is best avoided.